![]() ![]() We planned to install a burlap quatrefoil shade from our local Decorating Outlet that we mentioned here, which is hung from the dual-bulb pendant below. With your fluorescent fixture gone, now you can turn your attention to installing your new pendant, semi-flush, or flushmount light. You’ll see us get to that later in this post, but this is an important step to make sure there’s no lingering evidence of your old fluorescent fixture! Installing A Pendant Light Fixture In Its Place Since your new light fixture likely won’t cover the same spot, you’ll need to spackle any holes (like the ones from the screws), repair any other hidden damage, and also paint to blend the area with the rest of your ceiling. If you’re old fixture is in good enough condition still, we highly recommend donating it somewhere like a Habitat for Humanity Restore. Apparently I was so excited to have it gone, I blurred my face. Once I unscrewed those with my cordless screwdriver… Now the only thing holding up the fluorescent fixture were two big screws on either end. Step 5: Unscrew The Fixture Box & Remove It From Your Ceiling Also, you can see this step was actually done after we painted the walls. You don’t need to mess with any of the wiring within the fixture itself (aka, those blue and red wires on the right side of the photo below). Then, with the power still turned off, I unscrewed the wire caps so that we could detach the fixture wiring from the ceiling wiring. Step 4: Disconnect Wires In The Old Fixture Had that been the case here, it would’ve required more complex wiring to move the fixture box to the right spot. In our last kitchen, the wires came through the ceiling at one end of the fluorescent light. We were very relieved to see that the wiring came through the center of the fixture. Then we snapped out the metal cover that concealed all of the wiring in the back of the fluorescent fixture. Then I took out the long fluorescent bulbs and placed them aside, just to make sure the fluorescent tubes didn’t get broken in the process. Next, I took off the plastic shade cover, which was just snapped into place. Step 2: Remove the Plastic Shade & Light Bulbs If you want to be super, extra careful, you can also use a voltage dector to make sure there’s no current running to any wires before you make contact with them. ![]() And doing it first makes sure you don’t forget about it later. Doing this will make sure someone doesn’t flip the switch back on while you’re working. Whenever you’re working with a light fixture, it’s always good to turn off the power to this light at the circuit breaker in your electrical panel box, not just at the light switch. It was incredibly simple to do so we’ve outlined a step-by-step process below: Step 1: Turn Off The Power Removing A Large Fluorescent Light Fixtureįirst we replaced the big fluorescent light near our stove. Yep, just wires coming out of the drywall! So we’ll show you two ways to replace your fluorescent lighting with a more udpated pendant or flush mount fixture. After the housing is fastened properly, I was going to use one of those "goof patches" to correct the oversized hole.ĭo either of these seem like a viable option? I appreciate any suggestions or advice.We just swapped out two old fluorescent light fixtures in our kitchen and they each required slightly different techniques because – surprise! – one of the didn’t have a fixture box in the ceiling behind it. I cannot find anything similar for a recessed housing, as they all seem to require nails. I know they sell fan kits (remodel style), where you can extend and secure the brace without ceiling/attic access. Is this acceptable code-wise, and would it work? I also thought that perhaps I could suspend it across the joists using hanger bars. I could probably put a piece of wood between the housing and the joist, so that it is flush. ![]() One of my thoughts was that I could drill two screws through the remodel housing and attach it the joist. I noticed that there is a joist to the left of the housing. If possible, I would like to find a solution that doesn't involve extensive sheetrock repair. Two of the clips clips will not engage since there is not enough sheetrock. I know that the typical cut is in the 6.25-6.75" range. I measured the diameter of the hole, and it is about 7.25". I don't know who originally installed it, but it is one of the Halo remodel housings. There is a recessed light in my family room that I am trying to replace. ![]()
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